The back of an island: BALIK PULAU
It’s located on the southwest of Penang Island, the unique name tells us that its location is right on the back of the island. Literally, ‘Balik Pulau’ means ‘the back of the island’ in Malay, and the locals also call it ‘Pulo’. Still, the village is retained much of its rustic charm accentuated with Hakka tradition.
The earliest residents of Balik Pulau were from southern Thailand. During the late 17th century, Penang Island and the mainland were ruled by the Malay kingdom of Kedah. When Burma threatened Siam, the Sultan of Kedah supported Burma with arms. This move enraged the King of Siam and later, Siam frequently threatened and planned attacks on Kedah. During this unstable period, Chinese residents from Phuket Island, and Malays living in the southern Thai districts, like Pattani, Yala and Satul, moved further south to Penang Island, and some even fled to the hilly Balik Pulau and settled down.
The early settlers started farming various crops, such as paddy, coconut, assorted fruits, coffee and etc. And by 1794, the East Indian Company started clove and nutmeg plantations. By the late 18th century, Balik Pulau became an agricultural center.
New Balik Pulau Market, the taste of Balik Pulau.
Mr. Koh Teng Huat, was born and raised in Balik Pulau, then left home for a short exploration, 16 years later, he returned to Balik Pulau and eventually realized where home is. He was our guide of this trip, and his humor brought us so much fun.
Due to the rain, Mr. Koh led us to the new market for a very localized lunch, the main reason was, the new building is quite accessible for our disabled friends.
Balik Pulau Laksa is a must-try at the new market.
The boss was preparing bowl after bowl of Laksa.
Mieng Kham is a Thai appetizer.
Mieng Kham is sold at the Wonton Mee stall, and made by the young Thai woman who married a local Chinese.
Lim’s Brothers Estate, a rustic lifestyle survived in modernity.
To us, the Lim family is a miracle, as well as a surprise.
Livestocks are being raised in different corners within the compound, and it’s filled with the smell of a farm. Assorted fruit trees are easily spotted, but most of it weren’t recognized by us, a bunch of typical city-dwellers. The estate has already earned their fame internationally, of course it’s due to their high quality durians. The annual tasting event even attracts visitors as far as the United States and Europe. Unfortunately, we had no luck on this trip, because the season was long over. However, we can always visit again!
Mrs. Lim told us, most of the daily routines are done by the workers, however, the chores in and around the estate would never be finished. Most chores are being done manually, even the daily 5-round collection of 7000 eggs is included. The farming live seems simple and relaxing, indeed it requires a lot of hard work and is truly a hardship.
Visit Lim’s Brothers Estate
No. 51, MK 5, Titi Serong, 11000 Balik Pulau, Penang.
Tel: +604-866 8551
Contact Person: Mr. Lim Chong Teng/ Peng Siew
Roman Catholic Church, a new belief was brought in.
The Roman Catholic Church was originally an attap house when it was first built in 1854. During the late 18th and early 19th century, more and more locals converted to be the Catholics. Due to the increasing capacity, several rebuildings were taken place later, and gradually, the church building became today’s structure.
Till now, the church is still in use and offers services to the locals, therefore if you want to visit the church and view its interior, do drop by on weekends.
Viewing of Interior
Saturdays, 7pm – 10pm
Sundays, 11am – 2pm
Xuan Wu Chinese Temple, the tradition continues.
This old temple had been through several major rebuildings and renovations since 1900, though the present facade is totally a different version, but the beams are still the original ones.
Chinese opera is performed in front of the temple ground every March and July.
Pulau Betong Fishing Village, was once a bustling port.
Mr. Koh told me that this fishing village was attacked by the 2004 Tsunami, and the end result was a several casualties and a bunch of scary experiences. Eventually life moves on, but the pain of losing loved ones wouldn’t stay in the past, it would only heal bit by bit as the time passes.
No matter how busy the fishing village used to be, and today, it’s merely a port that carries fishing hobbyists out to fish, and a great spot for an evening stroll along the plankwalk.
Pantai Pasir Panjang, a secluded haven.
Walking along the sandy path, Mr. Koh started telling us his childhood reminiscence happened on this stretch of beach, meanwhile the sun began to set unnoticeably and quietly.
From here, we could see Pulau Betong, the turtle-shaped island.
Another wonderful memory was created by us, (from left, back to front) Mr. Koh, Kim Luan, Chin Teck, myself, Hsiao Hsia & Kim Eie.
Yeh Lai Siang, an everyday dinner place.
Our final stop was Yeh Lai Siang, obviously it’s our dinner place, just like most of the local families gathered around the table and waiting for the authentic Hakka dishes.
Five-Spice Braised Pork
Pi-Pa Duck
Seafood Claypot
Fish Head Curry
Chicken Chop With Mango Sauce
Yin-Yang Vegetables
As the night deepened, the place was getting crowded.
Dine at Yeh Lai Siang
No. 165, MK 4, 11000 Balik Pulau, Penang.
Tel: 012-498 4052
On this day trip, we only got to see Balik Pulau briefly…
This village isn’t only situated in a great geographical location, as well, it’s filled with all sort of interesting people and stories. Also, it’s a perfect choice for a family outing.
Getting to Balik Pulau
View Directions to Balik Pulau in a larger map
never know this place existed at all, must be so isolated. i suppose might be good to go there for a visit someday before the other people find out about and spoil the quiet rustic charm.
It’s located on the southwest of Penang Island, the unique name tells us that its location is right on the back of the island…..
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[...] A Day Trip tο Balik Pulau, Penang [...]
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It’s located on the southwest of Penang Island, the unique name tells us that its location is right on the back of the island…..
[...] A Day Trip to Balik Pulau, Penang [...]